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For the next 12,000 years their descendants fished, hunted, camped, buried their dead and ultimately farmed along its banks.
The Great River: A Closer Look
By Robert Boszhardt

The author is Regional Archaeologist at the Mississippi Valley Archaeology Center (MVAC), University of Wisconsin-LaCrosse.

The first people to come upon the Mississippi River may very well have looked into a raging gorge filled with torrential glacial meltwaters. Across the thundering water, they would have seen the land we now call Wisconsin.

To get here, they needed only wait till winter, when the floods annually subsided and the much lower river ultimately froze over. For the next 12,000 years their descendants fished, hunted, camped, buried their dead and ultimately farmed along its banks. They were all Native Americans, and their story is one of successful adaptation to an ever-changing world.

exposed shell layer
Archaeological excavations at this island site have uncovered a 2,000-year-old shell layer that was the surface of the ground during the period when Native Americans lived here. Photograph courtesy of James Theler, Mississippi Valley Archaeology Center.

The first people
The first people, arriving at the end of the Ice Age, were initially nomadic colonists. There is no question that they sometimes hunted the contemporary game that included woolly mammoths and mastodons, for the bones of these animals have been found throughout western Wisconsin, as have the distinctive fluted spear points that archaeologists attribute to the Paleoindian culture. But Paleoindians almost certainly hunted smaller game and collected plants for food, clothing and shelter. One other thing is certain: Once they arrived in Wisconsin, they quickly learned where critical resources such as flint-like stone for making tools existed, and they returned to these places year after year.

By 10,000 years ago, the glaciers had receded, and many species of large mammals—including mammoths and mastodons, but also early forms of horses, camels, saber tooth cats and giant, 400-pound beavers—had become extinct. The world had changed, and people had to adapt.

The Archaic period
Over the next several thousand years, the climate became drier, and prairies expanded eastward. The principal game became deer and elk, and these were hunted with spears tipped with a variety of stone points. During this Archaic period, cultures developed seasonal rounds in which they would gather along the river in the summer, dividing into family size groups in the fall, when they would seek shelter in the deep valleys.

2000-year-old pot
This 2,000-year-old reconstructed pot was excavated from an eroding island along the banks of the Mississippi River. Photo credit: Robert Boszhardt, Mississippi Valley Archaeology.

Territories began to be recognized and ultimately marked and defended. By the end of the Archaic period, about 3,000 years ago, cemeteries were established that reinforced territorial boundaries. At the same time, inter-regional trade was established, beginning a period in which exotic materials were exchanged across eastern North America, with the Mississippi River serving as a natural highway for this commerce.

Woodland innovations
Around 2,500 years ago, there was a revolution in Native American life ways that archaeologists call Woodland along the Upper Mississippi. One Woodland innovation was the technological adoption of pottery. Because earthen pots are difficult to make and fragile, they imply less movement among the people that made them. In addition, Woodland camps included the first small gardens, a practice that supplements natural foods but also ties one to the land. Finally, within a short period, cemeteries began to be marked with earthen mounds, accentuating territorial claims.

A far-reaching trade network
Still, for several hundred years the far-reaching trade network persisted, with many exotic objects being placed with the dead in round mounds. Along the Upper Mississippi, these materials included large knives chipped from flint that originated in the Rocky Mountains, axes and ornaments made of pure copper from Lake Superior and special pots imported from Illinois. By this time, the islands in the Mississippi floodplain were active summer campsites, and near Prairie du Chien tens of thousands of clams were collected from the river.

For unexplained reasons, the trade system collapsed around A.D. 400, but Woodland people continued to thrive along the Upper Mississippi River. They continued to follow the traditional seasonal round, gathering and fishing along the Mississippi in the summer and hunting deer during the fall-winter in the interior. Soon thereafter, the bow and arrow was introduced and once adopted became the weapon of choice for hunting and warfare.

earthen mounds
1,800-year-old earthen mounds on a bench overlooking the Mississippi River. Photograph courtesy of Robert Boszhardt, Mississippi Valley Archaeology Center.

Earthen mounds
By around A.D. 800, Woodland cultures across southern Wisconsin began to construct mounds in the shapes of animals such as birds and mammals. By A.D. 1000, groups of these effigy mounds are located well into tributary valleys, and because it is nearly impossible to construct mounds in the winter, these indicate that some people were living away from the Mississippi River all year long. Conversely, groups along the Mississippi could no longer venture into the valleys for winter hunts.

Tensions rose, more mounds were constructed to emphasize territories and corn was added to the gardens.

The emergence of the Oneota
To the south, the major cultural center, called Cahokia, was established near what is now St. Louis, and its influence spread up the Mississippi River around A.D. 1050. Within 100 years, the Effigy Mound culture had vanished, and the Upper Mississippi became home to its successors, the Oneota. This culture lived in concentrated summer villages at places such as La Crosse, planting large fields of corn, beans and squash that were tilled with hoes made from the shoulder blades of buffalo.

They appear to have migrated west each winter to hunt buffalo, returning in the late winter to subsist on food that they had stored in pits dug into the ground. The Oneota buried their dead within their villages, rarely constructing mounds. Consequently, modern development in places like La Crosse frequently encounters Oneota village remains and not-uncommonly burials.

survey boat
Survey boat alongside eroding prehistoric shell midden site in the backwaters of the Mississippi River. Photo courtesy of Robert Boszhardt, Mississippi Valley Archaeology Center.

Pressures from outsiders
When the French arrived at the Mississippi River in the late 1600s and made the first written record, the Oneota had abandoned La Crosse, moving west into Iowa. Over the next 200 years, as European pressures brought on increased war and disease, a variety of tribes moved through the Upper Mississippi region.

By the early 1800s, when the American government began to lay claim, the major occupants were the Ho-Chunk in southern Wisconsin, the Sauk in northern Illinois, the Fox to the west in northern Iowa and the Dakota Sioux in eastern Minnesota. In a whirlwind of history between 1820 and 1850, all of these tribes would be forced to cede vast amounts of land, with the catalyst being the 1832 Black Hawk War, which ended in a massacre on the banks of the Mississippi just below the town of Victory, Wisconsin.